Backstage Beauty Report: Rachel Zoe Infuses Boho with Glamour

If there's one beauty look Rachel Zoe's known for, it's rocking a deep burgundy lip.  Backstage at her show yesterday it was no surprise that she was inspired by Kate Moss (duh) and kept the focus on a wine stained lip.  Staying true to herself, I wasn't mad at her, because I found myself once again loving the look her backstage glam squad created, especially the glam lip!   "Rachel wanted the girls to be like young Kate Mosses running around a field with a golden glow as if they can be frolicking around in the hay, but to juxtapose that, she wanted what she called a 'bad ass' lip," explained Charlotte Tilbury the lead makeup artist for Maybelline.

To achieve the look that's pretty much Rachel's inspiration for everything, Tilbury used Dream Fresh BB Cream on the models, a shade or two darker on the paler skinned girls for an added glow and added a bit of Dream Matte Mousse Foundation in Cocoa wherever the sun would naturally hit.  The cheeks had a hint of pink.  "The lip is an oxblood stain in the center of the lip, but it's matte and smoked out," Tilbury said as she demonstrated by painting it on a model using her finger.  The color: SuperStay 14Hr Lipstick in Wine and Forever.  To clean up around the edges, she used a q-tip to ensure the lines weren't too perfect.  Clear brow gel and mascara finished the look.

Kerastase Lead Stylist, Odile Gilbert, was excited to explain the look as I feel like it's something she wears on the regular.  "It's basically what you do in the winter when you have long hair and put a coat on," she explained.  "You tuck it into the coat."  To achieve the look, she prepped the models hair with Kerastase Resistance Volumactive Mousse, created a center part and secured a loose, low ponytail pulling out pieces in the front.

Maybelline manicurist, Honey created a custom blend for Rachel out of three colors to create a neutral that wasn't too pink or too cappuccinoish.  It took Honey a few hours of mixing and stirring and she came up with the perfect blend, which she calls the 'flush blush.'  No word on whether or not it will go into production.

One more thing to note is that RZ was one of the only designers who cared about skincare and making sure her models had the proper base before throwing them into makeup.  Dr. Jart was on hand with makeup artist, Joy Fennell to ensure they were prepped so their skin was properly hydrated and plumped.  Their key product: Water Fuse Sure Gel.

Bohemian Sophistication Backstage at Jill Stuart

Jill Stuart is known for her girly, youthful clothes and this season is no exception. The overall look was described as "bohemian sophistication" by Lead Makeup Artist, Diane Kendal for MAC. She wanted to add to the softness of the clothes by creating a simple, yet sexy face for the girls. Using some Jill Stuart products and some MAC products, Diane began by keeping the skin matte except for a pink/peach blush to give it a warm glow. She played up the eyes by smudging black kohl on the inside of the lid. To keep the kohl from being too harsh, she used black cream liner to soften and MAC brown grease paint to contour. The lips were kept simple, yet colorful without competing with the eyes. First, foundation was applied to them and then a hint of MAC's eye pigment powder in pink and orange. This look is so easy to recreate and perfect for going out to dinner! Just be careful not to overdue it on the lips or you'll end up looking more Bozo than beautiful.

To play up the easy, flirty look, Odile Gilbert for Kerastase created a hairstyle that screamed Spring. She started by parting the hair in a deep side part and scrunching the with Kerastase Lotion Densitive using a blowdryer to create texturized waves. To execute a coy, innocent feel, she created the illusion of bangs. (It looks way more difficult than it is, just bring hair to the front, twist to the side and hold with bobby pins.)

To make the style really stand out, every girl had a braid under the hair that popped out on the runway. The hair was held in place with Kerastase's double force hairspray.

I loved this look because it is so simple to do at home, and works on every hair type. Even those with painfully thin hair can make it work by using Kerastase's Mousse Volume Active.

Breakfast at Tiffanys, Backstage at Monique Lhuillier

Backstage at the Monique Lhuillier fall 2011 show Val Garland for MAC and Jan Arnold for Creative Nail Design were joined by Odile Gilbert for Kerastase to create a glamourous yet edgy look. "The gowns are cleam, long and slender," commented Arnold. "Think Angelina Jolie in The Tourist."

The nail color was made of a combination of two shades layered on top of each other: Silver Chrome, Desert Suede and lined them with Dark Ameythest (which will debut in Fall 2011).

Gilbert created a twist of ponytils that were strategically placed and pinned around the head to resemble ribbons and added a black velvet bow into each of the models hair for a girly, Breakfast at Tiffanys effect.

Garland made the eyes the focal point of the face using a combination of blacks with deep plum for a smokey effect.